November 8, 2007
All-time Top 10 Motorcycle Tools
Tool chest ‘must haves’ for wrenching
By Dave Shepherd, motorsports technical specialist, Yamaha Motor Canada
While tidying up my tool chest the other day, I noticed that certain tools were definitely more worn out than the rest… that led to me picking my Top 10 motorcycle tools:![]()
1. Crosspoint screwdrivers (especially in #1 and #2 sizes). Commonly referred to as Phillips screwdrivers they are not the same; true cross-points (JIS) are designed to “cam-in” and grip tighter for use in metal applications. If you commonly slip when using a cross point, make sure you have the right size and type and that it isn’t worn out. (I have a really cool “bevel drive” screwdriver, which is great for getting under a carburetor and adjusting the mixture screw without burning your fingers on a hot crankcase.)
2. Sharp-edged pry bars. Don’t use a flat screwdriver for prying; you’ll end up with a damaged tool!
3. A good-quality ratchet in the size that fits your sockets. For motorcycles, almost every bolt torque is low enough that either a 1/4″ drive or a 3/8″ will do. Go for the best quality, because anyone who has had a racket slip on the pawl will remember that knuckle pain for a long time!
4. Sockets, in short, deep and impact (for use on your air wrenches). Metric motorcycles will eat eight and 10mm sockets, and 12, 14 and 17mm sockets are commonly used everywhere. For these small sizes, always buy six-sided sockets if you don’t want to round the bolt heads.
5. The opposite to socket is the Allen wrench. Most common size for usage for metric bikes are the 5mm and 6mm.
6. A good set of combination wrenches (from 8mm through to 19mm). A good wrench has slim lines, a smooth, high-quality chrome finish, and a fairly flat angle to the closed end. The 8, 10 and 12mm wrenches tend to snuggle down amongst the other shiny bits on the bike and hide.
7. A full punch” set. Punches can be worth their weight in gold if used properly. A sharp chisel can remove a rounded screw (because you used the wrong driver – see #1). A smart rap on the center of a tight and rusted bolt with a straight punch can help shake it free and get it out. And tapered punches an help align holes and prevent crossthreading.
8. Hammers. Note the plural here; there’s a right size and type of hammer for every job.
9. There are more different kinds of pliers than you can shake a stick at, especially when you group cutters, wire strippers and any other grip tool in with them. Two things: pliers should be comfortable in your grip, and should have a good, sharp tooth pattern. Indispensable in this drawer is a diagonal cutter and a “long nose” plier to get into those tiny motorcycle places.
10. And last, but not least, a grabber tool. No matter how careful you are, sometimes you drop a screw or clip and it lodges in a narrow space; a “grabber” is a long, skinny device with 2 or 4 fingers that retract and hold whatever you are trying to reach; it’s also available in magnetic types. Caution: don’t use this on your finger; it’s much stronger than you think! (Don’t ask how I know this
All manufacturers will have the dreaded “special tool” designed for a particular purpose, but for the most part, they are only required for more complex operations. (The big exception to this rule is the oil filter wrench, used on cartridge-type filters.)
Do you agree with my Top 10 Motorcycle Tools? If not, what are your picks / favorite tools?